Garlicky Refried Black Beans

I’m not sure where the term “refried” originated when talking about beans, since they’re not actually “fried” in the first place. My best guess is that the traditional method of preparing them calls for placing already-cooked beans in a skillet and mashing them into a thick, paste-like consistency, adding a bit of liquid along the way for a creamier texture, if desired. Still not exactly “refried,” but names don’t matter when taste is so good.

If you’ve not made your own refried beans—black or pinto—now is the time to do so. It takes very little effort and very few ingredients—all you need is time. And once you’ve tasted the simple freshness of homemade refried beans, you won’t go back to that canned mush anytime soon. Maybe never.

When I make refried beans, I like to include different ingredients simply to add a little extra flavor without overpowering that wonderful earthiness of the beans themselves. Spicy chiles or smoky chipotles work well in this dish, as do leeks or scallions for a more oniony flavor. Simple spices such as chile powder, cumin, or smoked paprika are good enhancers too. 

For this dish, I chose to go garlicky because…well, it’s garlic. And who can get too much of that? (Here’s a tip: Chop the garlic cloves very coarsely—not finely. You want the chunks to be big enough to remove from the liquid with a slotted spoon along with the beans.)

Whatever you choose to add to the beans during cooking, the basic recipe is the same: parboil, soak, cook, puree. I place the beans in a processor along with some cooking liquid to get extra-creamy texture. If you prefer a stiffer texture with chunks of whole beans remaining, place the cooked beans in a skillet and mash with a fork or potato masher.

4-5 servings

Ingredients

• 1 cup dried black beans
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 4 large garlic cloves, chopped
• 1 large shallot or 1/2 small onion, chopped
• 2 1/2 cups chicken broth
• sea salt
• freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

1. Place the beans in a heavy, medium pot and cover with about 1 inch of water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and boil 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and let stand 1 hour. Drain and rinse.

Parboiled Black Beans

1. Heat the same pot over medium heat and add the olive oil. Add the garlic and shallot and sauté 2-3 minutes, until softened (don't let the garlic burn). Add the beans and chicken broth and season with salt and pepper. Stir well and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer 1 1/2 hours. Do not drain.

Garlic and Shallot Beginning to Cook

Cooked Black Beans and Garlic

1. Allow the cooked beans to cool, uncovered, about 15 minutes. (Beans may be cooled completely, placed in an air-tight container, and refrigerated in their cooking liquid overnight.)
2. Using a slotted spoon, remove the beans, garlic, and shallot to a food processor along with 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid. Puree until the beans develop a creamy texture. If they seem too stiff, add a little more cooking liquid to reach the desired consistency.

Pureed Black Beans

1. Place the pureed beans in a medium, nonstick skillet and keep warm over very low heat until ready to use.

Garlicky Refried Black Beans