The Briny Lemon: Italian-Style Meatloaf with Mushroom and Fennel Sauce

Old-fashioned, classic comfort food is always a welcome sight on the dinner table, and meatloaf is a prime example. But there’s nothing “old” about it when you dress it up with flavors from one of the world’s most inviting cuisines: Italian.

In this recipe, the ingredients say Italy. A bit of ground fennel seed with fresh basil and flat-leaf parsley make the beef and pork mixture extra floral and flavorful. Pan-seared mushrooms and fennel in a simple fresh tomato and red wine sauce add a rich, slightly earthy, slightly sweet complement to a not-so-old-fashioned favorite.

Fennel Seeds

Ground Fennel Seeds

Note: Like meatballs and other baked ground-meat dishes, meatloaf needs a binding agent (or two) to help it hold together and stay moist during cooking. In this recipe, fresh bread cubes soaked in milk provide that soft, gluey element to give the ground beef and pork and vegetables a tender, juicy finish. I used sourdough but any small-cubed white bread will do.

Ingredients

For the Meatloaf

olive oil, for oiling baking dish
1 cup small sourdough bread cubes
3/4 cup milk
2/3 lb ground chuck
2/3 lb ground pork
1/3 cup finely chopped onion
1/3 cup finely chopped green bell pepper
1/4 cup tomato puree (from a 10.75 oz. can)
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf (Italian) parsley
1 tbsp chopped fresh basil leaves
1/2 tsp crushed fennel seed
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Small Sourdough Bread Cubes

For the Mushrooms and Fennel

2 tbsp olive oil, divided
8 oz. crimini mushrooms, thinly sliced
1 medium fennel bulb, quartered, cored, and thinly sliced lengthwise (reserve portion of frond)
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
8 oz grape tomatoes, quartered
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1/2 cup tomato puree (from a 10.75-oz. can)
1/2 cup dry red wine
4 large basil leaves, cut into thin ribbons
1 tsp chopped fennel frond

Sauce Vegetables

Cored Fennel and Frond

Sliced Fennel

Preparation

For the Meatloaf

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly oil an 11 X 7-inch baking dish.
Place the bread cubes in a bowl and cover with milk, pressing down to cover all. Soak for 15 minutes.

Milk-Soaked Bread

Place the ground chuck, ground pork, and next 7 ingredients (through fennel seed) in a large bowl. Squeeze the excess milk from the bread cubes and add to the meat mixture. Season with salt and pepper.
Combine the ingredients, mixing gently with your fingers. (Don’t overwork it—try to keep it light and airy.) Form the mixture into about a 9 X 4-1/2-inch rectangle and place in the oiled dish.

Ingredients without Bread

Soaked Bread Added

Meatloaf Ready to Bake

Bake uncovered until browned and just cooked through, 50-55 minutes. Remove and let rest 5 minutes.

Baked Meatloaf

To serve, cut the meatloaf into 8 slices and place 2 slices on each of 4 plates. Spoon the mushrooms and fennel in tomato sauce (recipe follows) on top and alongside and serve right away.

For the Mushrooms and Fennel

Heat a large skillet over medium heat and add 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add the mushrooms and fennel and season with salt and pepper.
Cook until some of the liquid has evaporated and the vegetables are tender, stirring frequently, 7-8 minutes. Transfer to a bowl with a slotted spoon. Do not wipe out the skillet.

Mushrooms and Fennel Beginning to Cook

Cooked Vegetables

Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil to the skillet. Add the fresh tomatoes and garlic and cook, stirring and mashing lightly, until they begin to break down and release juices, 5 minutes.
Add the tomato puree and wine and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook 10 minutes.
Return the mushrooms and fennel to the skillet and stir in the basil and fennel frond. Cover and cook over low heat 5 minutes. Taste for seasoning before serving.